Jewels As Collectibles, A Fusion Of Indian Craft And Culture With Contemporary Concepts

Rooted in artistry, culture, and traditions, jewellery in India extends beyond adornment and is embedded with meaning, history, and personal expression. And since craft and jewellery have been wrapped up in the country’s cultural heritage for centuries and generations, they reflect the social, spiritual, and economic landscape. From Indian Royals being the patrons of International Jewellery Maisons to the same maisons drawing upon the opulence and heritage of India for their most coveted designs, from the extensive export of Indian gemstones to the global independent jewellery brands adapting Indian crafts and stories – the world has forever continued to take note of the country’s diverse craft and culture and most importantly, the passion and appreciation for distinguished jewels. 

The past year has been immensely monumental for the Indian jewellery landscape as the world had its eyes set on Indian jewels, courtesy of Meryl Streep wearing Hanut Singh pendant earrings for the Cannes Film Festival, Rihanna in the very rare pairing of Manish Malhotra High Jewellery and Sabyasachi Jewellery, and the many opulent and exquisite jewels worn by the Ambani’s (including the magnificent Viren Bhagat designs and the much-talked-about late 19th century sarpech as baazuband from the Al Thani Collection). With India being fundamentally intrinsic to the global fine jewellery scene, we have many of the international jewellery brands spotlighting exceptional skill and artistry of our country with a contemporary craft-meets-design language – along with the Indian jewellery designers impressing the world with the harmonious merger of Indian culture and craft with Western forms and elements. As they together weave stories of past and present with jewels dripping in tradition, innovation, and craft, we unravel the artistic essence and influence behind these unique expressions of craftsmanship that makes these not just ordinary jewellery pieces but collectible works of art. 

The Dazzle of Indian Jewellery Craft 

Yes, India has had a constant deep desire for jewels and jewelled objects, especially the dazzle of gold, diamonds, and gemstones. And the many legendary jewelled tales of the Indo-Mughal era and Indian Royals are definite testaments to the discerning allure of Indian craftsmanship. Though there will always be a continuation of traditional Indian jewellery designs, there are contemporary Indian jewellery designers who are drawing from the diverse collective of artisanal skills and traditions to create a distinctly fresh and effortless aesthetic for the urbane global clientele. To create this seamless contemporary design language, these designers are blending traditional jewellery craft and techniques, Indo-Mughal motifs, regional jewellery styles, and gemstone expertise with unexpected materials, minimal precious metal, conceptual forms, and Western influences. As Vishal Kothari of VAK Jewels sums up, “With globalization, the traditional elements and techniques – like Kundan, Jadau, and Meenakari – are being reinterpreted with minimalism, geometry, and functionality to align with an international audience while staying authentic to their origins. This fusion is not about replacing the old but about reimagining it in forms that resonate with the contemporary sensibilities.” And Rahul Jhaveri of Studio Renn further adds, “We believe contemporary pertains to building on the past, reacting to the present and creating for the future – and being forward thinking. And the way we perceive Indian jewellery is a product of centuries of influences from all over the world – far beyond the borders – after all, it is in India that all those aesthetic and technical influences got the patronage to evolve and take hold. Over the centuries and generations, this has culminated in a rich and deep heritage that goes beyond the idea of the ‘opulent’.”

Hanut Singh Princess Ride Earrings (Emerald, Diamond, Rock Quartz, & Lotus Pink Quartz) and Studio Renn Transient Ring (Gold, Diamonds, & Concrete)

Case in point? VAK Jewels’ minimalist reinterpretation of Indo-Mughal motifs and architecture and the introduction of portrait-cut diamonds (one of the oldest diamond cuts traced back to the Mughal Empire). The signature pendant earrings of Hanut Singh that strike an exceptional balance of Art Deco, Royal India, and Indo-Mughal influences while being a testament to his style and family heritage. Tallin’s versatile and vivid jewels that modernise Kundan jewellery and stone carving techniques with an amalgamation of Indian and Italian aesthetics. Sajjante’s experimental and abstract jewels bringing together Florentine techniques (like Regatta and Nido di Vespa) and Indian symbols and stories. The everyday fine jewellery by Ananya which harnesses the healing properties of the gemstones, rooted in Indian spirituality – with the Chakra, Mogra, and Scatter collection (yes, the signature Chakra bracelets are a cult staple amongst the jewellery connoisseurs!). Studio Renn’s use of rare and uncommon materials (like concrete and wood) to create a conceptual and technical fusion of art, jewellery, and jewel art. 

Tallin’s Candy Carved Designs (Photo by Gourab Ganguli), Ananya Chakra Bracelets (with Mint Jade & Strawberry Beryl), Chakra Tennis Bracelet (with Heart-shaped Emeralds), and Mogra Earrings ( Pink Mother of Pearl and Emerald), and Sajjante Paisley X Regatta Earrings

Elevate The Jewels, Preserve the Craft

Jewellery in India has long been considered as much an heirloom as an investment, even though it has been synonymous with intricate craftsmanship and irrefutable artistry. And redefining the perception of jewellery in India becomes a foremost focal point for contemporary jewellery designers. As Shruti Chajjer Ranka of Shruti Sushma says, “At Shruti Sushma, we design jewellery that embodies personal stories, emotions, and conversations – making them more than just an accessory. And educating clients to appreciate these artistic and emotional values, alongside high-end gemstones, has been both challenging and rewarding.” Vishal agrees, saying that in a market dominated by maximalism, educating about the value and craft of minimalist Indian jewellery is a constant endeavour. “Additionally, finding the right balance between artistic experimentation and commercial viability requires meticulous attention to detail – along with retaining the authenticity of handcrafted techniques while innovating with new materials and designs,” he adds.

VAK Jewels Architectural Splendor Earrings (Rose-cut & Brilliant-cut Diamonds, Zambian Emeralds, & White Gold) and The Portrait Ring (Portrait-cut & Rose-cut Diamonds & White Gold)

And the result is rather two-fold, i.e., a worldly clientele that is now a patron of this fusion of luxury, individuality, and heritage and a design language that is unapologetically Indian and undeniably global. Like Shruti Sushma’s Nelli Ring, born from a client’s cherished memory of her grandmother, reimagined by incorporating different sizes of diamonds while preserving its shape. VAK Jewels’ Architectural Splendor Earrings that transform the structure of majestic arch jali from horizontal to vertical with the jali silhouette filled with a geometric long emerald and accented with fluid rose-cut diamonds and The Portrait Ring featuring portrait-cut diamonds that are as thin as a shard of glass. Sunita Shekhawat’s reimagination of Art Deco in Black Enamel collection with Zambian emeralds, crafted in Jaipur. And let’s not forget, Sabyasachi Jewellery’s exploration of Georgian and Victoria influences, Mughal heritage, and Bengali filigree technique with The Bengal Royal collection and the gleaming experience of the cultural savoir-faire across the new silk route – Calcutta to New York – via the craftsmanship of Bengal, gilded Byzantine magnificence, and Broadway’s theatrical power with the Bengal Byzantine collection. Balancing the boldness in design by crafting a contemporary dialogue between the East and West and the traditional and rebellious, Sabyasachi has brought alive the legacy of the great history of Bengal’s culture and jewels with fine craftsmanship, aesthetic exuberance, and exclusive gemstones. With eight years since its launch including three superlative years at Bergdorf Goodman, it’s not a surprise to know that Sabyasachi Jewellery is contributing INR 1.5-1.8 billion to Sabyasachi’s overall turnover and is touted to be a significant value leader in the long term. 

Shruti Sushma Nelli Ring (Diamonds & 18k Gold) and Sunit Shekhawat Black Enamel Collection (Diamonds & Zambian Emeralds accented with Black Enamel)

Sabyasachi Baghbazar Necklace (Emeralds, Yellow Sapphire, Old-Mine & Brilliant-cut Diamonds) and Celestial Nine Earrings

Besides the concerns for client adaptability, the development of craft and craftspeople is an imperative challenge for these designers to consider, as empowering artisans to embrace new design directions while maintaining their traditional skills is a rewarding process for both the craftspeople and designers. For instance, Sunita Shekhawat’s Bougainvillea collection, inspired by the vibrant Bougainvillea flowers of Rajasthan, has been crafted entirely in their Jaipur atelier – though what truly sets this collection apart is the use of plique-à-jour enamel in every piece, showcasing a seamless blend of their craftsmanship with a globally recognized technique. Having spent three years with their artisans in training and mastering every nuance of this craft, whose origin lies in the Byzantine Empire, Sunita Shekhawat adds, “Though already masters of traditional Indian enamelling, artisans embraced and mastered this globally renowned complex technique over the period to ensure uniformity in design.” She further spotlights the need to support the craft and traditions by empowering the irreplaceable craftspeople, saying, “Another pressing concern for such craft amalgamation is the slow adoption of these techniques by the new generation of artisans. While they are in the process of learning, there continues to be a looming risk that the number of skilled craftsmen will decline drastically in the next decade – which poses a significant threat to preserving these traditional arts for the future, making it imperative to prioritize skill development and knowledge transfer.” Simply put, our craftspeople are the definite gems of the Indian jewellery landscape, and the true dazzle of jewels lies in their artistry and sincerity. And yes, the transformation of the Indian jewellery landscape is directly relative to the preservation of the craft (and craftspeople).

Sunita Shekhawat Bougainvillea Ring (Rubies, Pink Sapphires, Emeralds, Black & Champagne Diamonds,& Gold)

Indian Craft Goes Glocal

From the Patiala Necklace to the ‘Star of the South’ Diamond Necklace, Indian Royals commissioned some of the most magnificent and extravagant jewelled pieces from luxury jewellery maisons, like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Boucheron among others. These royal jewels along with Indian art, architecture, culture, and natural landscape have served as a perennial creative library for these jewellery houses from the 1900s to the present day. For instance, Cartier’s Tutti Frutti collection featuring sapphires, rubies, and emeralds engraved or sculpted in the shape of leaves, buds, and berries, and Boucheron’s New Maharajahs collection (from 2022) inspired by their largest special commission ever received in the brand’s history by Bhupindar Singh, the Maharajah of Patiala, in 1928. Besides the Indian jewellery designers and luxury maisons, there’s a collective of global independent jewellery designers celebrating the Indian craft and heritage and their association with India with full transparency, like Silvia Furmanovich, Alice Cicolini, Marie Lichtenberg, Van Gelder, and Atelier Molinari among others. 

Cartier Udyana Necklace ( Hexagonal Mozambique Rubies, Cabochon-cut Zambian Emeralds, Brilliant-cut Diamonds, & many more emeralds, rubies, and sapphires) and Boucheron Mew Maharajah Necklace (Platinum, Diamonds, Emeralds, & Rock Crystal)

Elaborating on her association and admiration for India, Silvia Furmanovich says, “India, with its layered history, profound spirituality, and artistic heritage, offers an endless source of inspiration. When I began working here, I was captivated by the depth of craftsmanship – whether it was the miniature paintings of Udaipur, or the stone inlay work seen in Mughal architecture – along with being drawn to its ability to harmonize complexity, whether in textiles, architecture, or jewellery. My motivation was to capture this essence and translate it into pieces that honour the past while embracing contemporary artistry.” And Arundhati De-Sheth (Fine Jewellery Sales Expert) agrees, saying that for the international community that has come and spent time in India, our culture and heritage have touched their heart and their point of imagination to then create pieces that have a distinctly “Indian” vibe. “I feel an outsider’s perspective is free from the baggage of traditions, and they create India-inspired pieces that tend to become coveted by Indians and a global audience alike!” she adds. Like Van Gelder’s minimalist and modern interpretation of Navratna and the enamel-forward abstract and optical rendition of step-wells (baoli) of India, Alice Cicolini’s Meenakari and Landscape collection (handmade in India in collaboration with Kamal Kumar Meenakar and Bablu Ji) and Sari collection (inspired from the myriad patterns, weaves, and colours of the Indian saree, made in UK) and Silvia Furmanovich’s miniature-painted earrings and pendants and the Pietra Dura earrings from the much-revered India collection that continue to be the favourites of the jewellery collectors. 

Van Gelder Baoli & Navratna Collection

Alice Cicolini High Sari Zardozi Ring and Sari Chanderi Triple Stack Ring

With an appreciation for the immersive craft experience, coupled with the exceptional artistry of the craftspeople to interpret distinctive ideas into jewels, these independent designers are not only celebrating and embracing the intricacies of the craft but even have the absolute respect to aid its preservation. Having created designs that bridge history and modernity to make the time-honoured craft and techniques relevant to today’s collectors, Furmanovich adds, “My collaborations with Indian artisans are built on mutual respect and creative exchange. Rather than simply replicating traditional motifs, we explored new applications in fine jewellery. For example, the art of miniature painting – historically used in manuscripts – was reimagined in earrings and pendants. Similarly, the Pietra Dura technique, traditionally seen in Indo-Mughal architecture, was transformed into delicate, wearable compositions. By integrating these crafts into jewellery, we not only introduce them to a new audience but also create sustainable opportunities for artisans to continue and evolve their craft.” And currently, she has been exploring with craftspeople specializing in Bidri to create sculptural earrings with an unexpected interplay of silver and gold – along with another project that involves weaving Indian textiles into jewellery for a rather tactile expression of adornment.

Silvia Furmanovich Miniature Painting Earrings (Diamonds, Green Tourmalines, & 18k Gold) and Inlaid Marble Earrings (Diamonds, Tanzanites, & 18k Gold with marble inlay featuring Mother-of-Pearl, Lapis Lazuli, and Carnelian)

And then there’s Alice Cicolini, Queen of Enamel, who pioneered the modern rendition of Meenakari for the global audience, in collaboration with master craftsman Kamal Kumar Meenakar (from Jaipur). Recognizing the role she and many other international designers play in supporting the behind-the-scenes craftspeople, she has consistently spotlighted and credited Kamal and Meenakari across multiple avenues to bring in much-deserved global recognition. “Kamal has always described his practice as a devotion to God, a sacred form of personal expression – bringing a talismanic quality to the pieces created as one can feel the passion and energy of the hands that crafted that piece of jewellery. When working with a master craftsman, understand that you are not making just another product, but rather an artwork of superlative beauty, and that requires a whole different level of commitment and respect for the process. Approach the craft and craftspeople with the right reasons and present an opportunity to evolve their practice.,” she says. Unlike Silvia Furmanovich and Alice Cicolini who interpret Indian craft and stories via their designs, Anna Molinari of Atelier Molinari has consolidated the traditional French jewellery technique, ‘mise a jour’ (that allows light through the stones by piercing out the metal under the stone setting) with the traditional Indian technique of ‘Jali’ (a lattice or metal mesh technique used to lighten the metal weight in the jewellery) to create her signature gold lace design. Highlighting the collision of tradition, culture, and innovation in her design language, Molinari, known for radiant gemstone jewellery, elaborates, “Being from Normandy, I have always been fascinated with the French lace and the intricacy and the delicate feel of the fabric. When I moved to India, I was amazed by the Indian architecture and how the jali windows reminded me of the lace. It was fascinating to see how the strong structure of jali contrasted with the transparency of the light through it.” 

Alice Cicolini Meenakari Jodhpur Minature Aquamarine & Leaf Rings

Atelier Molinari Attrape Rêves (Dream Catcher) Aquamarine Earrings

The rarity and colour play of the gemstones, the craftsmanship, the intricacy and wearability of the design, and the thoughtful integration of heritage and modernity – these are the elements that transform a piece of jewellery into a collectible work of art – dripped in culture and set in an innovative framework of traditions – for collectors and connoisseurs who value distinctiveness and artistry. As Furmanovich puts it, “A modern collectible transcends trends and tells a story – a story that celebrates the human hand, the imperfections that make it unique, and the rich narratives behind its making. They are timeless in their craftsmanship yet contemporary in their design, making them an object of wonder, a piece of history carried into the future.”

All Images Courtesy of Respective Brands

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