Unravelling The Fine Line of Jewellery Between Art, Architecture, And History with Hanut Singh

A modern-day jewel royalty, Hanut Singh hails from the royal family of Kapurthala which has forever been known for its discerning style and jewelled legends that inspired many international fashion and jewellery houses. And ever since the debut collection of abalone shells and pearls over two decades ago, Singh’s eponymous jewellery brand has enamoured jewellery connoisseurs across the globe and garnered him an exceptionally niche list of patrons that includes Beyoncé, Madonna, Cher, Rihanna, Christian Louboutin, Kareena Kapoor Khan, Karisma Kapoor, Mozez Singh, Diane von Furstenberg, Mary-Kate Olsen, Dimple Kapadia, and Ananya Pandey among others. Yes, this is the jewelled life of Hanut Singh with a definite full circle moment of jewels and heritage.

Blending classic and contemporary, art and architecture, Jazz Age and Indo-Mughal era, Singh’s design language is a testament to contrasts and versatility of his multi-faceted style, spirituality, and sense of self. Though the ethos of his brand has harmoniously evolved over the years, they continue to be reminiscent of his regal heritage, personal expression, and Indian craftsmanship. And here, in a conversation with Runway Square’s junior editor – Karishma Gulyani, he unravels the design foundation and artistic essence of the jewelled world of HANUT SINGH.

Hanut Singh

Runway Square: It’s been 22 years since the launch of your eponymous label. So, what does the label Hanut Singh symbolise?
Hanut Singh: It symbolises the same ethos from when I first started i.e. artistic and artisanal precious jewellery with a slamming point of view. And like I have said in the past, my jewellery is a well-made cocktail with aspects of the past, very much of the present, and the lashings of the future.

RSQ: And how does your personality transpire into the label?
HS: It’s imbued entirely in every aspect of it. I do it all on my own, so it’s definitely a reflection of myself and my experiences. And everything from my DNA to my passion, my thoughts, feelings and emotions, my breath, and my prayers – are all imbued holistically in my jewels.

The Jewels of Hanut Singh

RSQ: Your designs have had a multitude of influences over the years. But what has been the ultimate driving force behind your creations?
HS: Art Deco, Royal India, and Indo-Mughal history inspire me along with dance, music, books, and architecture – with nature being the biggest boundary of it all. And I’m even inspired by symmetry and proportions specifically in architecture – like the Mughal and Deco architecture. I’m constantly inspired, I’m constantly on the go, and I’m constantly involved with and part of everything that I have mentioned. So, I can’t say one thing that has inspired me and made me do what I do – because it’s an amalgamation of life and creative forces. And everything intermingles to create a medley of jewels.

Hanut Singh for The Met Store’s Heirloom Project featuring carved hydra, enamel, and diamond drop earrings and watermelon tourmaline, ruby, diamond, and pearl double-drop earrings

RSQ: From Maharaja Jagatjit Singh ji to Princess Karam – how has your family and its distinctive grandeur and aesthetics informed your design language?
HS: Through osmosis, I would imagine. I have lived with it and lived around it. It’s part of my family so, it informs every aspect of my world and jewellery. And everything is a homage to my family and my grandparents – every single thing that I do!

Women Of Hanut Singh
(L-R) Sydney Sweeney, Cher, Kareena Kapoor Khan
(L-R) Twinkle Khanna, Alia Bhatt, Indrani Dasgupta Paul

RSQ: Jewellery is often considered a reflection of personal growth and experiences. So, how has your vision for the brand and designs evolved over the years?
HS: Because everything in life is an evolution, I hope my work has also evolved. And as you do something more and more, and spend more time and energy over the years or rather decades, you hone the craft more and more. Though in a constant evolution, there’s always harmony in my work through the sacred geometry and the hues and shapes of the stones I’m working with.

RSQ: And what’s the story behind the ideation and creation of your cult-classic designs, i.e. the dagger, sword, shark tooth – and pendant earrings?
HS: I love creating talismanic things, hence the use of daggers, swords and shark tooth as symbols of talismanic protection. I have taken inspiration from the daggers and swords of different eras and concocted my own. It’s all about the energy, and these bring an inimitable energy to the jewels. And my earrings are all about proportions, symmetry, glamour, and beauty – capturing luxury, form, and movement.

Hanut Singh Sword Necklace, Dagger Earrings, Shark Tooth Necklace, and Earrings

RSQ: Your designs have transcended cultures, continents, and generations. What is the x-factor that appeals to the audience and makes your brand distinctively timeless?
HS: Anybody who has flair, integrity, intelligence, personal style, and chutzpah would understand and appreciate my jewellery. And I do adapt my designs with time, but never towards a specific market or target audience. I make jewellery for it to be worn. I don’t make jewellery for people to just buy and lock up. And I don’t change my design language for Gen X, Y or Z. So, it’s wonderful to have mothers wearing it, the kids wearing it, and the grandmothers wearing it. And I think the x-factor would be my uniqueness and my point of view – with superb quality and a sexy flair.

RSQ: Do you believe your discretion for presentations, retail, and social media adds a layer of allure to your brand?
HS: See, it’s just the way I roll. Everything about my work is very personal to me. So, even my social media is about my life and my artistry. But yeah, it does add mystique – along with integrity and uniqueness.

RSQ: How will you describe the next decade of HANUT SINGH?
HS: Well, with my favourite motto – to keep on keeping upon!

Images Courtesy: Hanut Singh